From ancient Greek settlers to North African transplants, Marseille is a cosmopolitan and dynamic city characterized by its cultural richness and opening to the world. This diversity makes for a cocktail of recipes, traditions and unforgettable sights to see.
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In the upcoming 2024 Olympic Games, Marseille will be hosting 10 sailing disciplines and 10 football matches, which is going to attract a lot of tourists. Fear not, we’ve got your back to help avoid the crowds and find the best spots in town.
Traditional snacks in emblematic neighborhoods
The most typical Marseille food is panisse from the neighborhood of l’Estaque. These thick chickpea fries, sometimes shaped like 2-centimeter disks, were brought from Liguria and Piedmont by Italians who came to work in the harbor. Similar dishes made from chickpea flour can be found along the Mediterranean coast.
They can be served as appetizers or side dishes topped with tomato sauce and ratatouille, but the traditional way to eat them is directly in the l'Estaque harbor. You can get a paper cone full of panisses in one of the three baraques à chichi, little snack kiosks on the port that sell fried goods. Marseille locals usually eat them sitting at a bar or on a bench, or walking along the water under the sun.
At the Mary Madeleine shop on the Vieux Port ("Old Port"), you can buy a madeleine to go and enjoy the famous shell-shaped French delicacy as well as the view of the city's emblematic waterfront. The little sponge cakes come in different tastes, but only one shape and size of course!
Le Panier
Right above the madeleine shop is the must-see Le Panier ("The Basket") district, with its street art, galleries and designer boutiques. It is the village within the city, the definition of local Marseille. Wandering around, you'll be immersed in culture, between the Cathéderale La Major, the Vielle Charité and the Museum of Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean (MuCEM).
After so much walking, you'll probably be hungry, and Le Panier won’t let you starve. On the Place des Pistoles, with its beautiful fountain, you'll find a constellation of regional restaurants and their terraces. A personal favorite is Le Rendez-Vous Des Amis, which offers seasonal cuisine and cocktails, ideal for a brunch or a summer dinner. The ingredients for each dish are sourced from local producers, and if you are not a cocktail person, you can explore their organic and natural wine selection.
Food at the cabin
Overlooking the beach, Le Cabanon de Paulette ("Paulette’s Cabin") is a hangout spot for Marseillais. Serving beers and comforting food — especially seafood — prepared by “Mamie Paulette," this spot is perfect for watching the sunset. It's open all day long so it, can also be a good place to get a break from all that sunbathing. Be careful though: it's located in the Calanques of Marseille, which can get quite crowded during certain seasons.
Dinner with a view
Speaking of the Calanques, Marseille's protected treasure is prized by tourists as soon as the sun comes out. And they house a peaceful, hidden restaurant with one of the most pleasing sights in the city. You'll need an access plan to find the restaurant, which has very specific opening times. But that only helps preserve the intimacy of Les Tamaris — just don’t spread the word too much!
Must-have experience
The Frioul archipelago is the jewel of this Mediterranean city. Pomègues, Ratonneau, Tiboulen and If — the four islands constituting Frioul — are home to incredible fauna and flora, little coves and beaches. In addition to a boat ride that will allow you to observe the depths of the sea, you'll discover village life on the archipelago, with its restaurants, bars and aquaculture farm.
The site is also historically charged, with the Chateau d’If, a 16th-century castle that stands on the island of the same name and is full of anecdotes about kings and prisoners. It is now open to visitors and gives an incredible panorama of Marseille.