Amman, the capital of Jordan, is one of the world's oldest continually inhabited cities. Imagine a city where Roman amphitheaters peek out from bustling downtown streets and ancient settlements are established between towering skyscrapers. And over thousands of years, Amman has retained its authenticity. Yet it still enjoys a generous amount of outside influence that makes for heavenly cuisines.
✉️ You can receive our Bon Vivant selection of fresh reads on international culture, food & travel directly in your inbox. Subscribe here.
Jordan has taken in a large number of Palestinians since the Nakba (the UN estimates that some 2 million registered Palestinian refugees live there), as well as Lebanese and Syrian refugees.
With a culture of taking in refugees, Jordan feels welcoming to everyone. The mix of cultures also makes the city's vibrant dining scene a lot more dynamic, offering flavors from across the Middle East as well as Jordanian cuisine in its authentic form or with new creative twists.
Breakfast to start the day: Astrolabe
To start the day, head over to Astrolabe for a traditional Bedouin coffee experience with a panoramic balcony view. They serve Arabic coffee, which is brewed stronger and more bitter and which typically includes cardamon but it can also include saffron, ginger or flowers. The coffee is usually prepared in front of guests as a sign of respect and hospitality from the host.
Astrolabe is also a great place to try a traditional Arabic breakfast. These hearty meals include velvety hummus, herb-infused olives and pickles, scrambled eggs, and other traditional Arabic breakfast items.
Where to eat on Rainbow Street
Amman sits on top of several hills making it hard to walk around, but Rainbow Street is an exceptional pedestrian road that has won the hearts of locals and tourists who come to visit because it reflects the city's diversity. It’s a great area to meet fellow travelers or share stories with locals. From luxury restaurants to small cafes, diners have a variety of options.
A must-try while in Jordan is the falafel (deep-fried balls of chickpeas and fava beans with herbs and spices such as onion, parsley, coriander, garlic purée, cumin, black pepper, flour and vegetable oil). And one of the best restaurants for it is AlQuds Falafel. It doesn’t have a lot of seating, but these treats are best enjoyed as street food. Don’t forget to include a refreshing limonana to your order! This delicious frozen drink combines sweet lemons with cool mint, making it a perfect way to rehydrate yourself after a morning in the sun.
If you’re looking for a nice sit-down restaurant on Rainbow Street, Mijana Amman Restaurant & Café creates a warm and cozy atmosphere that has a stunning panorama of the city with plenty of seating. You won't want to miss the Kofta bil Tahinia, fragrantly spiced lamb or beef meatballs with roasted potatoes, all smothered in a rich and creamy tahini sauce.
Chef spotlight: Ali Ghzawi
Chef Ali Ghzawi is the owner of Alee, an upscale restaurant that reflects the culture, background, and roots of Jordan. Alee is positioned in historic Amman but brings a modern and innovative approach to cooking. Ghzawi transforms well-known local specialties into sophisticated dishes fit for fine dining, allowing diners to soak in the thousands of years of culture that have shaped Jordanian cuisine.
Originally from Irbid, Jordan, Ghzawi most famously won the third season of Top Chef Middle East & North Africa and was nominated in Forbes Middle East’s 30 under 30.
What's for Dinner? Sufra
After a long day of exploring, I recommend visiting Sufra for dinner where you can get Bedouin flavors and home-style Jordanian cooking. Sufra is ranked 41 on Mena’s 50 Best Restaurants list and has laid-back and welcoming vibes. It also specializes in clay pot cooking, which imparts a distinct flavor into dishes.
Sit on the open-air terrace and admire the charming garden by the Damascene fountain while enjoying Mutabal, a smoky roasted eggplant that has been whipped into a creamy dreamy dip with tahini and lemon, usually enjoyed with bread.
Mansaf is Jordan’s national dish, and it's a culinary roller coaster of textures and taste. The dish features fluffy rice with roasted nuts drenched in a cured yogurt that adds a rich depth of umami and tender lamb or beef that falls off the bone. This meal is best enjoyed when accompanied by fellow diners as it comes in a large quantity, so bring friends and family when you go out to eat.
End your dinner with a delicious mint tea. Tea culture in Amman is just as prevalent and important to local life as coffee. This delicate tea uses half the black tea leaves compared to the average cup of tea. To enhance the flavor, fresh mint leaves are added and gently pressed before pouring, releasing their refreshing notes. It’s a helpful way to settle your stomach after a large meal.
Must-have experience
Before ending your day, check out the Hashemite Plaza, which spans over 271,000 square feet and features a 2nd-century Roman theater. I recommend climbing to the top of the spectators arena and taking in the beautiful view of Amman before heading back home.